New Old Bass Day

[rayc]

I've actually tried to remove one with a reverse drill bit etc and it didn't budge. I don't have a Dremel tool but may look into that if needed though the screws are below the level of the pick guard surface.
It's becasue the pick guard is in decent condition that I'm being careful with this.
I'll give the heat method a go today...see how I go with that.

Yes, the pickups do look rough.
I did a quick test for continuity when the meter arrived but was uncertain of the results due to my ineptitude so will have another go after doing some watching/reading. I am aware that there's a decent chance that one is, or both are, cactus though.
Thanks gents.

[Armistice]

I've actually tried to remove one with a reverse drill bit etc and it didn't budge. I don't have a Dremel tool but may look into that if needed though the screws are below the level of the pick guard surface.
It's becasue the pick guard is in decent condition that I'm being careful with this.
I'll give the heat method a go today...see how I go with that.

Yes, the pickups do look rough.
I did a quick test for continuity when the meter arrived but was uncertain of the results due to my ineptitude so will have another go after doing some watching/reading. I am aware that there's a decent chance that one is, or both are, cactus though.
Thanks gents.

You could borrow my Dremel but I don't think that would work in this case seeing the screws are so low. Would cut a groove in your pickguard.

I assume, after WD40ing, you've given it a bit of a tap with a hammer onto the screwdriver which is sitting on the screw to try to loosen it up a bit? That works sometimes... just don't slam it further in!

Seems odd, because it's just never going to be a particularly long or tightly threaded screw.

[Greg_L]

I just don't see how those tiny screws into wood are so tight they can't come out.

[rayc]

I just don't see how those tiny screws into wood are so tight they can't come out.

I agree and it's frustrating.
It's not so much that they are tight but that they are corroded...the heads crumble as a screw driver turns in them so perhaps heat or a corrosion treatment might release them.
I've tried heavy pressure, WD40, screw extractor and nada!
We have half a dozen carpenters on site so I checked with them and they said before using an extractor try the corrosion treatment.
I'll try heat treatment, then corrosion THEN I'll buy a Dremel if I have to...the problem being the heads crumble so slotting may not offer anything either.

[rayc]

You could borrow my Dremel but I don't think that would work in this case seeing the screws are so low. Would cut a groove in your pickguard.

I assume, after WD40ing, you've given it a bit of a tap with a hammer onto the screwdriver which is sitting on the screw to try to loosen it up a bit? That works sometimes... just don't slam it further in!

Seems odd, because it's just never going to be a particularly long or tightly threaded screw.

Yep, guard would be damaged.
Yep, did the tap after WD.
Yep, ODD!

[CeeBee]

They are probably glued in as part of an old fudged refit. The only thing that is going to work is the heat to loosen the glue, or failing that, drill 'em.

[muttley]

Corrosion on old screws can bed them in pretty well mechanically. The corrosion sets into the lignin in the timber and they set fast. Heat expands the screw and dries the timber locally and when it cools the seal is often broken. That would still leave you the problem of getting them out if the heads are gone.

You may have to sacrifice the heads enough to lift off the pickguard. That would give you enough screw to get a set of pliers on the screw and work them out that way. If all else fails I would just dill them out with a drill bit slightly smaller than the holes on the pickguard and plug them.

[Armistice]

I knew the answer would involve fire...

[WhiskeyJack]

@rayc

would you be able to gently glide a butter knife or something else thin and rigid in under the pickguard and apply a little bit of upward pressure to sort of "pull" the screws out as you try to back them out? I feel like that might get you some results.It would have to be a delicate steady as she goes kind of approach?

other than that i would say give mutts "apply heat via solder iron" method a try.

-Or- just do a total hail mary and bore them little shits out and repair the holes you make with some wood dust, tooth picks filler and wood glue and just redo the holes entirely after you get done refinishing.

[muttley]

I've done this a thousand times and heating with a soldering iron is by far the first option I would use. Trust me. I learned it from a guy that was one of the countries best furniture restorers back in the 80's. His skills were mad. It may take a few attempts but it does work. The problem of the disintegrating heads on the screws remains.

[rayc]

Clearly I'm taking my time on this project.
I tried the heat treatment for removal and as the soldering iron I had was pretty lame and did nothing I bought a new one...that took time.
I tired the new one and had no good fortune - I tried four times across three days.
I tried the screw extractor again with no success.
I tried the anti corrosive TWICE and no joy was had.
I'm ever so slowly drilling the screws so as to minimize me doing something stupid.
I'm far, far too inclined to get impatient and do something silly so am REALLY limiting the time in any one session with the thing.
I've managed to drill out two and, interestingly, the scratch plate won't lift near then.
I suspect someone stopped sniffing and did some gluing.
I'm probably wrong but I can go on with my suspicious mind and prove myself wrong with no harm done.
I'll have a crack at the next couple of screws tomorrow.

[JD01]

I've managed to drill out two and, interestingly, the scratch plate won't lift near then.

Its probably stuck into the lacquer.