No thanks.
I'm thinking old school 200 watt Orange Matamp.
No thanks.
Ever since you mentioned it I've been ingesting Orange schematics.
Yea i don't know that there was much complexity in the older offerings. "make guitar loud" i think was their MO. no frills no bullshit kind of stuff.
The story of Orange and Matamp is pretty interesting. Basically Orange only exists because the Orange guy, can't remember his name, had a second hand music store and none of the big manufacturers would give him new inventory to sell. So without being able to sell Vox or Marshall or Fender, he just made his own amps. And they took off.WhiskeyJack wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 1:59 pm
Yea i don't know that there was much complexity in the older offerings. "make guitar loud" i think was their MO. no frills no bullshit kind of stuff.
Ha yeah it's waiting next in line. I'm riding two setups these days, that one will be the next "street" deck.
Good call, that'll make it worth more.Personally i think you should wait on selling the mic. Save it to record your new amp then sell it.
Greg_L wrote: ↑Tue Aug 25, 2020 12:21 pm Parts accumulation has officially begun. After much hemming and hawing and decision and indecision, I've decided to build this thing as a pretty faithful 1962/63-ish Fender Bassman 6G6B. I will still add some "features", but it's gonna be mostly stock. The interesting part to me is the work it's gonna take to make it work. The circuit itself is easy, getting all the parts piecemeal is challenging. I'm not building a kit this time. I'm picking and choosing every single part on my own.
But so far, the output transformer, power transformer, and choke are in the building.
This one's gonna be a lot more cutting and drilling and fabricating and painting and new tolex and grill cloth and speakers.....the whole shebang from scratch.
In a perfect world inside an amp you want wires as short and direct as possible. You could actually pretty much have no wires at all. That's true "point to point" wiring - components connect directly to tube sockets and jacks with no wires in between. In reality that's hardly ever possible so you need wires, and the shorter the better.
What do the wires do to affect things? Like interference and hum or something? Is there a difference with those things you called heater wires?Greg_L wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 1:37 amIn a perfect world inside an amp you want wires as short and direct as possible. You could actually pretty much have no wires at all. That's true "point to point" wiring - components connect directly to tube sockets and jacks with no wires in between. In reality that's hardly ever possible so you need wires, and the shorter the better.
Yes long wires have the extra risk of more interference, hum, cross talk, oscillation, etc. The longer the wire, the more potential it has for weirdness. High voltage wires run in close proximity to vulnerable signal wires. AC shares wires with DC. It's madness. So what you gotta do as a builder is minimize the potential for clusterfuckery by being really smart and careful with how you route things. Shorter is better....that's what she said.WhiskeyJack wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 1:10 pm
What do the wires do to affect things? Like interference and hum or something? Is there a difference with those things you called heater wires?